A casting number tells you what a module looks like. It doesn't tell you what it's calibrated for. We verify ABS modules for sale against your VIN and Hollander interchange before anything ships — not just the housing, the software inside it. Over 3,000 tested units in stock, 1980 – 2026, 50+ makes.



Need more than an ABS control module? Search thousands of fully tested engines, transmissions, and drivetrain components ready to ship from our salvage network.
Before you spend anything, run through this. A surprising number of "bad ABS module" calls turn out to be something cheaper.
Make sure the replacement ABS module matches your vehicle's VIN, year, make, model, and braking system. Our team can help you identify the correct OEM unit before you order.
A wheel speed sensor or wiring fault can trigger the ABS warning light without the module being defective. Always confirm the fault code before replacing any component.
Loose connectors, damaged wiring, or corrosion at the ABS module can produce the same symptoms as a failed module. A quick inspection may save you from replacing a part unnecessarily.
Every module goes through checks that are specific to what an ABS system actually does, not a generic once-over. We confirm 4-channel wheel-speed sensing is working independently at each wheel rather than paired by axle, since that's how modern stability control tells one wheel from another.
We match the OEM calibration ID stored inside the module, not just the casting number stamped on the housing — two modules can share a housing and still run different software. We verify the hydraulic accumulator can build and hold pressure correctly, and we cycle-test the pump motor under load rather than checking for simple continuity. None of that shows up if you're only comparing part numbers, which is exactly why it matters.
We'll tell you what fits in about two minutes.
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A tested used OEM module runs $150–$300 for most applications, compared with $600–$1,200 for a new part alone from a dealership, or $700–$1,500 for a full dealer replacement including labor.
The right answer depends less on abstract quality and more on your actual constraints. If your car is currently undriveable, that rules out most remanufactured and refurbished programs — they're almost always send-in services, meaning you pull your own unit, ship it out, and wait, often a week or more, before your car moves again. A used OEM unit ships from our stock and installs the day it arrives.
If your vehicle is genuinely rare — certain low-production European models, older Jaguar and Saab platforms, or some commercial vehicles — donor supply thins out fast, and a rebuilt unit may honestly be your only realistic path. We'll tell you if that's your situation rather than stringing you along with a promise we can't keep. And if keeping your original part matters to you, that's one more point in favor of a used unit: new and remanufactured paths typically involve a core charge or surrendering your old part, while ours doesn't.
If it's roughly 2005–2015 and none of those features apply, you're very likely plug-and-play — this covers most Ford, Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge and RAM trucks and SUVs in that window. Expect a brake bleed (sometimes scan-tool assisted), a code clear, and on some models a steering angle relearn. None of that is "programming" in the coding sense.
Before shipping your order, we'll verify whether your vehicle requires programming, coding, or calibration. If additional setup is needed, we'll let you know in advance so you can plan your installation with confidence.
Two modules can share a casting and still run different software — for different brake configurations, wheel sizes, or trim levels within the same model year. VIN and Hollander verification catches what a part number alone can't.
Since the 2012 model year, electronic stability control has been federally required on nearly every vehicle sold, and on most cars it lives inside the same box as your anti-lock brakes. That means a single failed module can quietly take down stability control, traction control, hill start assist, and trailer sway control, along with automatic emergency braking or adaptive cruise on ADAS-equipped vehicles.
Your brakes still work. What disappears is control while stopping – on ice, in rain, or mid-swerve. That correction is the entire reason the system exists.
If your last ABS module lasted 15 years, don't expect the same from the tech replacing it. A few shifts worth knowing about:
Stricter stability-control mandates and the rollout of ADAS have steadily pushed more braking logic into electronics rather than mechanical linkages. A 2008 module ran anti-lock braking and traction control. A 2022 module in the same class is a networked node handling stability control, hill start assist, trailer sway control, adaptive cruise, and automatic emergency braking simultaneously.
More features per platform means more calibration variants inside the same part family — and a higher chance that only vehicles built after roughly 2016 will require post-install coding at all.
The average car on US roads is pushing toward 13 years old, well past the point where dealers reliably stock electronic modules for it. For a large share of the fleet, a used OEM unit isn't the discount option — it's the only one that exists.
Brake-by-wire architecture is moving in, with manufacturers building platforms that support over-the-air updates and configurable braking profiles. Practically: check for an open recall or pending software campaign on your VIN before you buy a part — some faults now resolve with an update, not a replacement.
Is a fast-growing share of the category, and it usually isn't sold in pieces. These systems blend regenerative and friction braking through a sealed unit combining the master cylinder, electronic booster, and control module — replaced as one assembly.
Have your VIN on hand. We'll tell you what fits, whether it needs programming, and what it costs — most calls take under two minutes.
